Rust Medic Rust Remover - Ready to Use

Rust Medic Rust Remover - Ready to Use

Photographs showing Items Before and After Use by Rust Medic - Click on the images to enlarge

Rust Medic Rust Remover - Ready to Use

Rust Medic Ready to Use rust remover:

Rust Medic rust remover is a very simple and extremely safe product to use. By fully immersing your rusty items in Rust Medic, even heavy rust will be removed without any need for mechanical assistance.

The base content or active ingredient in Rust Medic will never degenerate. When exposed to the atmosphere for extended periods, the “water content only” will start to evaporate.

When first filling a container or tank with Rust Medic, mark the upper level or surface height of the liquid with an applicable indicator. Maintain this level of liquid at all times by replenishing evaporation with fresh water.

As indicated, the active ingredient in Rust Medic will never evaporate and will only expire by the final saturation of the liquid with iron oxide. At this point the liquid will be extremely black, and cleaning will eventually slow, then cease completely.

All items should be devoid of grease and oil as best possible before immersing into Rust Medic. Grease and oil will slow the de-rusting process as it will create a barrier that will delay access to the rusted surface. The use of solvents for cleaning prior to de-rusting should be kept to a minimum and completely rinsed with fresh water before the de-rusting process. Adding solvents, grease and oil to Rust Medic rust remover will alter the pH of the product and shorten life expectancy considerably.

When de-rusting items, it is recommended that immersion is complete, as partly immersing an item will cause carbon etching at the waterline.

Once your rusty item has been cleaned, remove from the solution and rinse with fresh water. For best results, a water blaster can be used to remove any residual carbon, however this is not essential. Dry your item completely and apply an applicable rust inhibitor for either short or long- term protection.

Rust Medic rust remover can be used over and over until the solution stops working.

  • Latest generation of Rust Removal using selective chelation.
  • Newest Technology Available.
  • Non-Hazardous – pH Neutral – Requires no special shipping procedures.
  • Reduces shipping costs significantly.
  • Extremely High-Quality and High-Performance.
  • Re-Usable – Can be used repeatedly until solution stops working.
  • Non-Toxic – Safe to use.
  • Safe on non-oxide based paints, Plastics, Cork, Wood Aluminium and Rubber.
  • Rust Medic WILL remove oxide-based paints.
  • Effectively removes rust from various steels and cast iron.
  • Brightens Copper, Brass and similar alloys.
  • No Mixing - Rust Medic RTU is ready to use straight from the bottle.
  • Easily rinses off with water to leave surfaces ready to paint.
  • Suitable for immersion and continuous spray applications only.
  • Great for Tools, Auto Parts, Chains, Gas Tanks etc.
  • Rust Medic WILL remove Mill Scale effectively. May require longer soak periods for extreme scale.
The time varies by the depth of the rust. Very light surface rust only takes 30 minutes. However, very deep rust may require an overnight soaking.
No, that method will not work effectively.
No, painted surfaces are not a problem. Just avoid paints with oxides.
Yes, it is safe on both plastics and rubber.
We carry Rust Medic Concentrate in 500ml, 1 Litre, 5 Litre, 20 Litre and 200 Litre sizes. Rust Medic Ready to use Rust Remover in 1 Litre, 5 Litre, 20 Litre and 200 Litre sizes.
The black coating is sometimes present after de-rusting high-carbon steels. This coating can easily be wiped off with a cloth or pad. The best results are obtained by washing immediately after removal from the bath.
While it is't necessary to clean the item, cleaning the dirt from your item will speed in the removal of rust and extend the working life of your solution.
Rust Medic will turn black and will not remove any more rust.
Unlike other rust removers that use acid to remove rust, Rust Medic is non-acidic. It will not attack the base metal, and it is safe to use. Rust Medic works through selective chelation. This is a process in which a large synthetic molecule forms a bond with metals and holds them in solution. Most chelating agents bind many different metals. The active ingredient in Rust Medic bonds to iron. It will remove iron from iron oxide but is too weak to remove iron from steel where the iron is held much more strongly.
Yes, Rust Medic will brighten copper, brass, lead, bronze and similar metals.
Rust Medic is pH Neutral. To give you a better idea of how that compares to other common items, a pH reading of 7 (neutral) is the same as pure water. A pH reading of 1 is a strong acid, while a pH reading of 14 would be a strong alkaline. To put this scale into perspective, rainwater generally is around 5.6 and Coca Cola is roughly 3 to 4.
You can use it as low as 15 degrees C, but we recommend using Rust Medic between 18 and 70 degrees C for fastest rust removal. The warmer the temperature, the faster Rust Medic will work, however it is not necessary to heat Rust Medic for normal use.
No, Rust Medic is too weak to remove iron from steel and will not affect the base metal.
No, “Ready to Use” Rust Medic or Concentrated Rust Medic, when mixed to the “Ready to Use” concentration will not benefit by further dilution. Diluting it will not make it go further and will make it less effective.
Rust Medic is similar to several competitors using Chelant technology, however we benefit from using the latest technology enabling a higher concentration rate and stronger formula.
Any water that you can drink is acceptable, however you can use distilled or softened water if you wish.
Rust Medic Concentrate mixes 1 part concentrate to 15 parts water. 1 Litre of concentrate makes 16 Litres of ready to use product.
Rust Medic Concentrate is exactly the same product as “Ready to Use” Rust Medic once mixed with water at the 1:15 ratio prescribed on the label. Once mixed, Rust Medic Concentrate can be used over and over just like “Ready to Use” Rust Medic. It is recommended, but not absolutely necessary to mix the entire contents of the Concentrate bottle following the mix ratios above.
Rust Medic rust remover is designed to work on steels, cast irons, galvanized steels, copper, brass, bronze, lead and Mill Scale.
Yes, rinse your tank with water and then add enough Rust Medic to cover the largest side of the fuel tank. Rotate every few hours until all rust has been removed. Rinse and dry thoroughly. If your gas tank is going to remain empty, rinse with diesel to add a protective layer until it is ready for use.
es, the water content in Rust Medic will evaporate if left uncovered in high temperatures. The active ingredient in Rust Medic will not evaporate, so replenishing evaporated water to the original volume will keep your solution active.
If Rust Medic has not been used, shelf life is extensive, and it can remain in the bottle for many years. As Rust Medic is a bio-degradable product, it will compost if starved of oxygen once used. Once used, Rust Medic is best stored in a plastic container with a lid that does not contain a seal. Utilizing an unsealed lid will allow Rust Medic to breath and limit evaporation extending the life of your product. Partial quantities of “Ready to Use” product can be removed from the original bottle at any given time but MUST NOT be returned to the bottle once used. Doing so will degrade the unused product and eventually ruin it completely.
Rust Medic is extremely safe on skin and all materials except RUST. It is also bio- degradable and earth friendly. Rust Medic is water soluble, pH Neutral, non- corrosive, non-flammable and contains no acids, bases or solvents. The only material found to be affected by Rust Medic is Magnesium.
Yes, in about 30 minutes. Anodizing, Powder Coating or paints that do not contain Oxides will not be removed.
A kitchen paper towel can be soaked with Rust Medic and applied to the rusted area. After this is done, cover with plastic film to prevent evaporation. A continuous recirculatory spray application is extremely effective for removing rust on large items that are too difficult to soak. Using a small pump (ie 12v bilge pump) an old shower rose, plastic tubing and a sheet of plastic, Rust medic can be caught and recirculated to form a shower that will keep your parts covered in liquid and enable the rust to be absorbed.

Rust: Everything You Need to Know

WHAT IS RUST?

Rust is found everywhere and is a common occurrence.

Rust is a general term for various forms of iron oxide. They are formed by the chemical reaction between iron and oxygen in the presence of water. Oxygen is found in the air we breathe and water can be found in the humidity in the air or as liquids normally found around us.

Rust is actually Fe2O3, a reddish form of iron oxide. Iron has another oxide, Fe3O4, which is sometimes called black oxide or black rust. Red rust is found in oxygen rich environments and black rust is found in oxygen poor environments such as under water.  Black oxide is a good protection for steel. Like aluminum oxide, black oxide molecules are the same size as iron molecules, so black oxide does not grow or flake. Black oxide is true gun bluing and the oxide found on some drill bits. Black oxide is also seen on iron and steel that has been hot-worked.

Rust starts by appearing as a light dusting on a piece of unprotected steel or alloy of such.  As rusting progresses, the rust particle starts to grow and in the case of red rust, starts to flake off the base metal.  Rust actually removes the iron that the oxygen and water react with, leaving the base metal "pitted".  The pitting is not noticeable if the rust is light enough and can be objectionable if heavy or severe rusting occurs.

Rusting is commonly known as corrosion of iron and its alloys, such as steel or cast irons. Other metals undergo similar corrosion, although the resulting oxides are not commonly called rust.

Given enough time, the oxygen, water, and any iron mass eventually converts entirely to rust and ultimately disintegrates. The corrosion of Aluminium is extremely slow because the resulting Aluminium oxide forms a semi protective barrier or coating, which protects the remaining Aluminium.  The protective barrier is a process known as passivation.

Many materials react with oxygen to form a chemical compound that is a combination of that material and oxygen. When iron combines with oxygen, it forms iron oxide, or rust. Iron oxide is a larger molecule than iron, so if iron oxidizes, it often puffs up and may even flake. This is because the rust requires more physical space than the original iron.

The rust expanding or puffing causes cracks and voids, which expose more bare metal to the environment. The rusting of iron can progress and is only limited by destruction of all solid iron. Other metals oxidize, but the oxides of some other metals are no larger than the metal themselves, so they don't puff up or flake. For example, Aluminium doesn't puff up when it oxidizes. This helps make Aluminium oxide a good protective coating, rather than the start of rapid degeneration.

Some things cause steel or iron to rust faster than others. Water will cause iron and steel to rust. Dissimilar metals rust faster than single metals because of electrochemical reactions, so steel rusts faster than iron, and joints between dissimilar metals rust very quickly. Salt water will cause rust faster than water because salt water is a better electrical conductor. Like most chemical reactions, heat also speeds rust.

Conditions Affecting RUST

It takes oxygen, water and iron to start and promote rusting, therefore removing one of these items will cause the reaction to stop.  The following sources of water will increase this reaction as discussed below.

Humidity:  Is the amount of water found in the air we breathe.  The amount of humidity depends on temperature and a source of water like a large body of water. We can find the greatest amount of humidity on hot humid days. On these days, rusting can be greatly accelerated as compared to cold dry winter days. Dehumidification can greatly reduce the amount of water in hot humid air.

Water:  Water is all around us and can be found in air, rain, and other sources.  Increasing the amount of water around iron parts will increase its rate of rusting.

Salt Water:  Salt water is especially corrosive to iron or steel.   Ships, marinas, coastlines and other similar areas are greatly bothered by rust corrosion. 

How to Protect Metals from RUSTING

Painting:  Painting adequately protects metals from corrosion.  The key to painting is to paint over metal free of contamination.  The metal needs to be free of oils/greases and rust/carbons. even if you remove all the contaminants except for all of the rust, the rust will continue to be active under the paint and prematurely peel off the paint coating. All too common with the use of Rust converters.

Rust Preventatives:  Preventatives do not offer the protection of paints.  This coating provides rust prevention if the coating is not washed off, left outside or similar.  Usually used in-between processes or in protected environments.

Rust Inhibitors:  Inhibitors are only used for short-term protection, preventing parts from rusting quickly and are easily removed.

VCI materials:  Vapor Corrosion Inhibitors emit a vapor that resists moisture from the air reaching the surface of the ferrous materials, thus inhibiting oxide formation.  Usually used in closed containers or wrapped objects. 

Cathodic Protection:  Used on automobiles to slow the rusting process.  Operates on cathode and anode principles.

HOW DO YOU REMOVE RUST?

Heat:  Heat up a part with high heat using a acetylene torch or similar.  This will remove most of the rust and may be aided by hitting with a hammer.

Acids:  Acids have been typically used in the past.  They work well but are hazardous to the employees and your health.  Requires protective equipment and safety precautions.  Acids must be thoroughly rinsed with clean water several times to remove all the acids.  Disposal can be expensive and mandatory.

Electrolytic:  Uses electric current to set up an anode and cathode reaction with the iron oxide.  Can take up to a week to remove rust.  Also, corners, sharp edges, etc. are not adequately cleaned of rust due to faraday effects.

Chelation:  New technology that uses non-hazardous chelant technology chemicals to remove the rust.  Chelant is pronounced "key-lant".

It is always best to protect the metal after de-rusting.

We ship via NZ post Most orders ship within 1 to 2 days of being recieved.

Select the product you wish to buy and click on the size you would like.

Click Add to your cart and goto the checkout

Enter your address, select your shipping option

Enter your payment details and confirm your order

from
$21.95 Incl GST
  • Stock: In Stock
  • Model: Rust Medic

Available Options

Larger Volumes: We specialise in providing large volumes of our products for business use. Please click here and let us know your requirements and we can send a quotation tailored to your needs.

How To Use Rust Medic

Glen 0 614
  A perfect Industrial set-up consists of a tank large enough to accommodate the maximum sized item you are going to repetitively de-rust. A gantry o..
Glen 0 871
Fuel Tank De-Rusting with Rust Medic rust remover:  The first step in de-rusting a fuel tank is to ascertain the degree of rust you are dealing..
Glen 0 797
By utilizing a piece of plastic sheeting and several pieces of stray timber, a cheap and simple dip tank can be created to enable the de-rusting..
Glen 0 982
STEP 1: On a plastic container take a marker and allowing for displacement, place a mark at a level to which you will fill with Rust Medic rust ..
A Non-Acidic Aluminium de-oxidiser and cleaner, ready to use on a range of aluminium products including: tools, antiques, cookware, automotives a..
from
$39.95
Add to Cart
Rust Medic Ready to Use rust remover: Rust Medic rust remover is a very simple and extremely safe product to use. By fully immersing your rusty ite..
from
$21.95
Add to Cart
Rust Medic  is a non acid rust remover  designed to work on steels, cast irons, galvanized steels, copper, brass, bronze, lead and Mill Scal..
from
$59.95
Add to Cart
Rust Medic Steel Shield™ is a liquid compound that inhibits rust on all ferrous metals  Steel Shield will work with all ferrous and non-ferrou..
from
$29.95
Add to Cart
Thermocure removes rust scale deposits from radiators, water pumps, water jackets, engine blocks and cylinder heads and will not harm soldered joints,..
from
$87.95
Add to Cart

What are people saying about us

Very happy with your newly developed range of Rust Medic products, they all work great, the results so far have exceeded my expectations.
I brought your Thermocure product for a flush on a Cosworth Capri before Christmas. I forgot to get back to you earlier with the awesome results. The inside of my alloy radiator is like new! Same with what I can see inside my thermostat housing. Even my heater system is working incredibly again. I didn't expect that as it has not worked for around 9 years. I couldn't believe how much black gunk came out even after numerous fresh flushes prior. I have filled the radiator with the Coolant you recommended and it has stayed beautiful and green over the last couple of months use. It used to go a rusted brown colour quickly. Thanks heaps for your help in making this happen. I'll be sure to recommend your products around the Capri club and use them in the future.
I ran the Thermocure flush chemical for 4 days, then flushed and refilled my cooling system with antifreeze. My tractor now runs cooler with the temperature needle sitting in the 11 o'clock position instead of the 1 o'clock position it was in before the flush. A great investment.